THERE’S no denying that Scotland’s gaining a strong reputation for gins and craft beers but when I think of my adopted homeland I think of whisky. The mere mention of the spirit and I’m reminded of old buildings covered in ivy, whose inhabitants have produced whisky for generations.
With this is mind, there is something special about seeing new copper stills being lowered into position in a new distillery. Even more so, when for the first time in over a century, it marks a return to whisky production on the Clyde. It will be some time before we can taste anything from the Clydeside Distillery as whisky takes time, and with maturity comes nuances; much like those of the characters in the industry.
None more so than Joe Brandie, owner of the Fiddichside Inn in Craigellachie. By 2019, his family will have owned the inn for a century. I met him during a visit to Strathspey when I was asked to taste a collaboration between Piers Adam, the owner of the Craigellachie Hotel, and whisky giant Diageo, in the form of a new Speyside whisky called Copper Dog – named after the long copper tube used by distillery workers to sneak out a dram or two, by hiding it down their trouser legs.
I would urge anyone to visit the Fiddichside. It has a fine selection of whiskies but people really come for the craic. From poachers to bootleggers, Joe has a story for everyone. Don’t wait too long though, as he’s 90 soon and is considering retiring … or maybe going part time.
Graham Suttle is the managing director of Kained Holdings which has nine venues, including The Finnieston and Porter & Rye in Glasgow.
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