John Dory isn't the bonniest fish in the sea but from a chef's perspective its versatility, texture and flavour make it very attractive indeed. Here I've gone for a light and summery method, steaming the fish and serving it with a sharp, rich sauce. For a side dish you would do well to beat wilted spinach or greens, which would raise the nutrition levels higher still.

Steamed John Dory with soya citrus butter sauce

Serves 4

2 shallots

1 garlic clove

250g unsalted butter

5g fresh thyme

200ml white wine

50ml double cream

20g root ginger

1 lime

1 lemon

1 orange

50ml soya sauce

4 x 150g John Dory fillets

First, make the sauce. Finely dice the shallots and garlic and add them to a large pan along with 50g of the butter. Place the pan over a medium heat, season lightly with salt and cook until the shallots and garlic are translucent and tender. Add the thyme and sweat for a further two minutes then add the wine, increasing the heat and cooking until the liquid has reduced by two-thirds.

Now add the cream and bring to the boil before turning the heat down to low. Dice the remaining butter into around 16 pieces and add it to the pan one piece at a time, whisking well and maintaining a low heat (the sauce will split if the heat is too high). Once all the butter is incorporated take the pan off the heat. Remove the sprig of thyme from the sauce and discard it.

Peel the ginger and grate it finely into the sauce along with the zest of the lime, lemon and orange and the soya sauce.

Place a steamer basket over a pan of boiling water.

Season the John Dory fillets lightly with salt and lay them on a piece of non-stick parchment paper. Place the fish in the steamer basket and cook for six to eight minutes.

Once the fillets are done remove them from the steamer basket and place them on warm plates. Pour a generous amount of sauce over the top and serve.