I HAVE an abiding childhood memory of catching my first fish. I was 12, and on holiday with my pen-pal’s family in Donegal. Early one morning we went fishing in a tiny green rowing boat on what I now know as a lochan, nestling in the dip of the low hills above the wonderful coastline. It was a still morning, slightly misty and warm. We pushed the boat out from among the tall reeds and glided off silently across the water. Once organised with rod and line dangling hopefully over the side, I felt the delight of getting a bite – albeit a tiny fish which had to be returned to the water. But a little later, I felt another tug and this time the fish was an acceptable size to take home and cook for breakfast. The experience was magical, but eating the fish, lightly fried in butter for just a few minutes, along with hot tea and toasted soda bread at the kitchen table, was even better.

Brown trout are indigenous to Scotland's freshwater lochs and burns. Their beautiful, smooth, gradated, copper-coloured skin is dotted with darker spots of brown, red and gold. They sparkle like sunlit water rippling in a soft breeze. Their terracotta-pink flesh softens when cooked to a paler hue to match the gentle taste of this close-textured fish.

Once gutted and cleaned, the backbone gently removed, there is nothing to cooking this little fish. If you are lucky enough to catch a larger specimen, it would be better to rest it in the refrigerator overnight and prepare it to eat the following day. But to add to the romance of the fisherman’s day out, I would suggest cooking the fish for lunch on the waterside, possibly over a small camping stove, or even a campfire. Some might take some oatmeal to press into the flesh of the fish before frying for a few minutes in hot butter. I thought it would be good to pack a few tattie scones to warm through the same hot butter and eat along with the trout. As it turns out, even preparing this in my kitchen for the photographs was almost as good as going fishing for Eddie, my number one food taster for the past 40 years.

In today’s world of food and drink, there have been attempts at farming brown trout for the mass market. However, rainbow trout are much more successful commercially, as they develop at a faster rate than the native brown variety. These are readily available to buy and make a really tasty meal at home, simply grilled with parsley and lemon.

I cannot admit to having gone fishing myself recently, but it just so happens that last weekend was the local Portree Angling Association’s trout fishing competition at Storr Lochs. Eddie and I had an afternoon out as tourists for once, driving from Colbost to Uig and over the majestic Quiraing, down past the Lealt Gorge and Kilt Rock, before reaching Storr Lochs. The weigh-in was due to take place at 4.30pm and as planned, a number of men suitably dressed in waders and wet weather gear, began to assemble by the clubhouse. Their faces were aglow with exposure to the sunshine and sharp showers which had hit Skye that day. Apparently, the fishing had been a “struggle” and the catch was disappointing. The weigh-in was light-hearted, but also serious as each man hung his fish on the handheld scales, inside a carrier bag of some sort. It was soon apparent that the style and thickness of the bag and the material it was made of could make a difference to the final weight and they all agreed that the same bag should be used to hang on the scales. There was no lack of goodwill towards my quest for a “keeper” fish to take home to cook for the photograph.

I asked the anglers how they preferred to cook brown trout and most agreed that frying in a little butter with a good pinch of salt, was the simplest and best way. One said his brother-in-law liked to coat the fish in oatmeal and fry it until golden and crispy. Another said he marinated the fillets in Drambuie and maple syrup before smoking them at home. I loved being with the fishermen and I hope some of the people I met will read this article today – if they’ve not gone fishing already.

Readers should not forget that it is important to buy a fishing permit to fish in our Scottish lochans. The season runs from March to September and fishing is not allowed on Sundays in Skye. Always follow the country code, take all litter home and be sure to extinguish campfires thoroughly.

Tattie Scones

(Makes 12/16)

450g warm, cooked potato (choose a floury variety good for mashing)

50g salted butter, plus a little more for cooking

100g plain white flour, plus a little more for dusting for rolling

Salt for boiling the potatoes and seasoning the mash

Method

1. Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water, drain, steam dry over the heat of stove, add the butter and mash until fluffy, but not sloppy or wet.

2. Sift the flour into the mash and mix together well with a wooden spoon. Season with a good pinch of salt. The mixture should form together into a soft ball, dry enough to shape and handle without being too sticky. If you need to add a little more flour, do so.

3. Weigh the dough into four equal portions and shape each one into a ball. Roll each ball of dough into a round, approximately 50mm thick. Use a plate or bowl to press into a neater round, approximately 20cm diameter. Cut each round into four triangles.

4. Take a large frying pan, add a skim of melted butter and heat. Using a fish slice or large palette knife, lift the triangles into the hot pan and cook for about two minutes. Lift one corner to check if the underside is turning dappled brown. If so, flip the scone over and cook on the other side. Lift from the pan and place on a clean tea towel, cover and keep warm before serving. Repeat until the rest of the scone mix is used.

5. If storing overnight, cool completely and place in single layers with sheets of greaseproof paper. Cover the top layer with another sheet and set aside in a cool place. The scones will not keep for longer than one day and are best made fresh. However, they can be reheated in a little butter under a hot grill or in a frying pan, as required. They are a favourite accompaniment to a full Scottish breakfast, but also delicious with grilled kippers and herring or mackerel fried in oatmeal.