THE next month is a big one. After a year-long building project I’m opening a brand-new venture with my long-time friend and fish merchant Gary Welch. It is the realisation of a long-term dream for us both. You might not think of Edinburgh as a fishing port, but the Society of Free Fishermen in Newhaven dates back to 1572.
Whaling boats set sail from the harbour and so did the herring fleet. When they returned, the Newhaven Fishwives would walk into the city with baskets of oysters and herring for sale to the residents. Even in the late 19th century, around 400 fishermen still called Newhaven home. The centre of their world was the fish market on the harbourside where the catch they worked so hard to land would be traded according to the price of the day.
Since then, so much has changed. Most of the fishing fleet has gone from Newhaven but the fish market building remains and some traders still call it home. It’s also where my partner Gary has his acclaimed fish shop, selling to the public and wholesale businesses, supplying the capital’s chefs. So, it was the perfect place for us to go into business.
We want our new venture, The Fishmarket, to be part of the regeneration of this ancient area of the city, celebrating its long links with the sea and fishing. At the heart of our business is a brilliant chipper. The fish couldn’t be fresher, as it comes from Gary’s shop, Welch Fishmongers right next door. In terms of being close to your suppliers, it doesn’t get closer than this.
We will also be showcasing the skill that makes for great fish and chips. Gary’s family have been in the business in Newhaven for generations and that experience shows. Our classic fish will be a haddie (better known as haddock). Welch’s will double fillet this expertly in an angel cut with butter knives in a highly skilled method that has been handed down through the generations. Fried and served with chips and the traditional accompaniments, it will be served to take away or at the table in our seaside eatery alongside a menu with langoustines, lobsters and the finest Scottish shellfish. Being optimists, we’ve also created an outside deck with amazing views over the Forth to the bridges in the distance. Soon it will all be open to the public but right now is all about the finishing touches.
When I worked with Rick Stein I opened his fish and chip shop in Padstow and I remember the anticipation surrounding that. That was exciting but this is special. As a seafood chef what could be better than opening a harbourside place to eat in the city where you were born? Even for chefs and their fish suppliers, dreams can come true.
Newhaven fish & chips
Ingredients: Serves 4
300ml sunflower or olive oil
100g plain flour, for dusting
240g plain flour
3 ½ tsp baking powder
270ml water, ice cold
900g floury potatoes
Rapeseed oil, for deep-frying
4 x 140g haddock fillets
Salt & Pepper
Method
1. To make the batter, mix the flour, 1 tsp of salt and the baking powder with the water. Keep cold. The batter will deteriorate quickly so best to use immediately.
2. Pre-heat the oven to 150ºC/gas mark 2. Line a roasting tray with plenty of kitchen roll and set aside.
3. Peel the potatoes and cut them lengthways into chips, then wash under cold water to remove the starch then dry off.
4. Pour some sunflower oil into a large deep pan until it is about a third full and heat it to 130ºC. Drop half the chips into a frying basket and cook them in the oil for about five minutes, until tender when pierced with the tip of a knife but not coloured. Lift them out and drain off the excess oil. Repeat the process and set aside.
5. To fry the fish, heat the rapeseed oil to 180ºC. Season the haddock fillets with salt and pepper, dust in the flour and then dip into the batter.
6. Fry one piece at a time, for 5-6 minutes, until crisp and golden brown. Lift out and drain on the paper-lined tray. Keep hot in the oven while you cook the other two pieces.
7. Raise the temperature of the oil to 190ºC and cook the chips in small batches for about two minutes, until they are crisp and golden. Lift them out of the pan and given them a shake to remove the excess oil, then drain on kitchen paper and keep them hot while you cook the rest. Sprinkle with salt and serve them with the haddock.
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