FOR the last 18 years, I’ve been a massive fan of the wines of Greece. There, I’ve said it…Greece. It’s a lovely country to visit, the food is excellent and the wines are truly world class.
The grape varieties are (at the very least) hard to pronounce, but the wines are really worth getting to know. In the whites, you should try an aromatic Malagousia, or a bone dry Assyrtiko. In the reds, look for a smooth, rich Xinomavro or a more classically styled Agiorgitiko. And then there are lovely, refreshing pinky drinkies and luscious sweeties too.
Wine has been made in Greece for 6,500 years, and they have some of the oldest (and, incidentally, occasionally ungrafted) vineyards in the world. The quality has been steadily improving over the last few decades, and if you consider the wines of Greece to be mostly cheap Retsina and slightly sweet thin reds, then you are doing the country (and your wine rack) a disservice.
Winemakers like Evangelos Gerovassiliou and Leon Karatsalos have rejuvenated the industry, and you can now see Greek wines listed in forward-thinking hotels and restaurants as their wine of the month. The next time you see one featured, try a glass. Or a bottle. You’ll be surprised by the quality, and I guarantee you’ll go back for more.
Here are a couple to try out this weekend.
Gaia Notios White 2017 (Oddbins, £12.75). This aromatic little doozy hails from Nemea on the mainland and is a blend of Moschofilero and Roditis. Oddbins first brought a raft of Greek wines to the UK in 2000, when they were way ahead of their time. The Notios wines continue to convert customers to the wonders of Greece to this day.
Ktima Gerovassiliou Viognier 2016 (Inverarity One to One, £18.99). From Epanomi in northern Greece, the Gerovassiliou Viognier gives many of the top wines of Condrieu a run for their money (but at a fraction of the price). The wine sees fives months in French oak, with lees stirring to intensify the flavours. Try a bottle of this with prawns, crab or lobster.
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