IT’S been a relatively quick journey but relief is the initial feeling as I head for luxury desert resort and spa, Al Maha, at 2am. After an hour’s drive – and a few miles along what I initially thought was a short driveway – I arrive at the front desk, bleary-eyed.

It’s my second time in Dubai and I realise just how much I’ve missed it as I’m met with a beaming smile and cool drink from the receptionist.

Exhausted, I’m driven in the dark to my “room” in a golf buggy and dropped off at the door with a key. I enter. Suddenly, I’m not so tired anymore. This “room” is bigger than my entire flat in Glasgow.

The Bedouin suite is lavishly decorated with authentic handcrafted Arabian furnishings, antiques and artefacts. Thoughtful touches – binoculars, an easel with art materials, a writing desk, Bedouin jars for water and dates, pastries, sweets and chocolates – are scattered around the room, which creates the illusion of a huge Bedouin-style tent.

A heavy-looking chest sits at the end of the humongous bed which “sleeps two,” but I’d double that. Ornate Omani doors in heavy wood are framed in glass tables and the double doors lead to something I’ll discover in the morning sun.

After a largely sleepless night in such lavish surroundings, I discover outside what I could not the night before: a private deck with sun loungers in a secluded area with my own private infinity pool and dining area, so secluded, in fact, that the entire desert is my back garden.

Something moves nearby and I flinch – an unfazed gazelle casually grazing, some 15 yards away.

After a much-needed, full-body massage in the spa – where I’m told I’m far too tense and must learn to relax – it’s onto a wildlife safari tour in a 4x4 where an experienced field guide, armed with a sense of humour, points out the different species the resort looks after in its conservation efforts.

The highlight is the dune dining experience that night. What can only be described as a magical night under the clear, starry, Arabian sky, this is no ordinary picnic, but a fine dining experience on a grand scale, with all the meat, rice and wine you could ask for.

Driving to the picnic in the pitch darkness tested my motion sickness. But, when we pulled into the dunes, just under a dozen flame torches light up the sand to expose Persian carpets and starched white linen.

The other guests provide delightful company and good conversation over dinner, a memorable part of my trip I know I’ll take away with me.

One guest asks where I’m headed to after Al Maha. I tell him I’m set for Palm Island’s Jumeirah Zabeel Saray. He immediately screws up his face and scoffs. “Good luck,” he says. “It couldn’t be further from here, in more ways than one. If you like loads of tourists and screaming kids in buggies, you’ll fit right in.”

The drive to Palm Island seems endless as last night’s over-indulgence starts to take its toll – and my fellow guest’s comments on the next hotel don’t help.

Palm Island is a sight to behold – as the Atlantis sits atop, reigning over all – with its pristine and palatial hotels.

We pass the Clyde-built Queen Elizabeth 2 ocean liner which, having been bought by Dubai a decade ago, has just opened as the world’s first-ever floating hotel. Nervously walking into the Zabeel, the interior and sheer luxury of the foyer transports one back to the golden Tulip age; every wall has been carefully hand-painted, proudly displaying Turkish artworks and stunning murals, giving the resort a rich historic feeling. That, and a feeling of a themed hotel in Vegas, or so I’m told.

One thing is sure, though. The Zabeel couldn’t be further from Al Maha. No tranquility here. Very much a tourist and family-filled hotel, the cacophony of noise in the grand foyer is almost deafening and there’s some waiting around at reception as confusion over rooms among staff sets in.

It’s a joy to, finally, unwind in the intimate comfort of the superior king room on the third floor. With beautiful views of the Arabian Gulf and the resort from the private balcony, luxurious marble bath accentuated with exquisite Penhaligon’s amenities and a generous king-sized bed, I can’t wait to live like royalty – even if only for two days.

If Palm Island is a sight to behold from the ground, nothing is about prepare me for the sight of it – and, indeed, the whole city – from the air. Following a smooth water take-off, a 45-minute seaplane flight tour with Seawings gives jaw-dropping aerial views of the gorgeous buildings that stud Dubai’s skyline, including the Burj Khalifa and Burj al-Arab on its own, solitary island.

Unparalleled views of Dubai’s man-made archipelagos – including the pristine, white, Palm Jumeirah and The World Islands, floating amid crystal-clear, turquoise waters – leaves the other tourists open-mouthed and wide-eyed, a stark contrast from the hyper people I boarded with.

Views of Dubai Marina and the busy ports of Jebel Ali and Port Rashid are particular favourites, as well as the giant, 150-metre high, golden Dubai Frame monument which doubles as a museum, telling the story of how the city came to be as we know it today.

Euphoric from the plane ride, I make a dash for the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (SMCCU) where I’m told tourists sit together in a group for lunch and get to quiz Emirati nationals about life in the Middle East.

Located in the Al Bastakiya trading village in the Al Fahidi Historic District, one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Bur Dubai, staff at the centre couldn’t be more hospitable, despite the fact I’m 15 minutes late. A long, thick Persian rug is filled with the most delightful-looking and aromatic foods, including my favourite – basmati rice, mounds of it.

We’re encouraged to eat as much as possible, and nobody has to tell me that twice. During lunch, the floor is open to asking staff as many questions as you want.

A woman from Florida and another group from Michigan almost relish in grilling our female guide about love, marriage, offspring – and why she’s still single. Desperately-eager to steer away from the uncomfortable topic at hand, I ask about the trials of completing Ramadan in the blistering heat. “It’s challenging if you’re not used to it, obviously, but I’ve done it my entire life, so it’s okay,” she replies, looking almost relieved.

The sea of lights at night that is Al Habtoor City is the next stop on my tight schedule where I’ve come to see the much-raved-about La Perle. Featuring a cast of 65 artists, this jaw-dropping show combines 2.7 million litres of water with acting, acrobats, aquatic and aerial stunts, often gravity-defying. Undoubtedly visually captivating, the plot for the show is somewhat muddled. Dinner calls.

Situated at the end of the pier at the esteemed Al Qasr hotel – with views across the Arabian Gulf – “Dubai’s most romantic restaurant”, Pierchic, offers a stunning, over-the-water dining experience like nowhere else in the UAE. The Mediterranean seafood menu sets the standard with a culinary offering inspired by the world’s oceans, with fresh catch and sustainably-sourced produce high on the venue’s agenda. Although the food may lack flavour, staff make up for it with their unique cocktails, one of which, a whisky-based drink, emerged smoking from a small treasure chest.

It’s been a packed few days and there’s time to catch some sleep before heading for the airport, but I’m hesitant to head back to the hotel and try. There’s always something in this city that renders you sleepless.

For more information on things to do in Dubai, head to visitdubai.com/en.

Stays at Al Maha, a Luxury Collection Desert Resort & Spa start from £540 excluding taxes and service charge, per room per night, based on two sharing in a room on full board basis. To book, please visit al-maha.com or call 97148329900. 

Stays at Jumeirah Zabeel Saray start from approximately £240, per room per night, based on two sharing a room on a bed and breakfast basis. To book, visit jumeirah.com/en/hotels-resorts/dubai/jumeirah-zabeel-saray.