It was a case of one step forward and two steps back for Scotland’s culinary scene with the annual dishing out of Michelin Stars.

Michael Smith’s Loch Bay restaurant in Stein, Skye, was the only Scottish recipient of a new Michelin Star but two restaurants - Kinloch Lodge in Sleat, Skye, and Isle of Eriska in Argyll, which only gained a star under new head chef Paul Leonard last year, lost their coveted awards.

Mr Smith had previously been awarded a star in 2015 when he was at the Three Chimneys, also on Skye. it failed to regain its star for the second year running.

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Boath House in Nairn, which recently caused a stir by announcing it expected to lose its star and that it was to stop doing its Michelin-pleasing menu because the fine dining experience was no longer what customers wanted, retained its star for 2018.

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This means Scotland now has 11 one-Michelin starred restaurants, down from 13 in 2016. Restaurant Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles Hotel remains the country’s only two-Michelin starred restaurant, an accolade it has retained for 11 years.

In Glasgow, which remains without a star for the 15th year in a row, Stravaigin was the only restaurant to lose its Bib Gourmand, awarded for “good quality, good value cooking”. The Gannet and Ox and Finch retained their Bibs for the city, with Edinburgh retaining four Bibs for Dogs, Galvin Brasserie de Luxe, Passorn and Tom Kitchin's Scran and Scallie.

The overall result prompted some disappointment.

Isabella Macdonald, director of Kinloch Lodge and daughter of its founder, Lady Claire Macdonald, said: “We are so sad not to have retained our precious Michelin star after seven years under head chef Marcello Tully. Our wonderful team of chefs are as brilliant and dedicated as ever, and we will continue to do what we do best – provide delicious and wonderful food in our own unique style.”

Sam Matheson, manager of Boath House and son of the owners, said they were delighted to have retained their Michelin star but were not going to waver from their determination to de-formalise the menu.

"We changed our menu not because we didn't want a Michelin star, but because we wanted to try to shatter the perception that Michelin starred food is formal, stuffy and overpriced," he said. "It is wonderful that we are keeping our star, and we are very positive about going forward and giving our customers what they tell us they want, which is a less formal experience."

Asked if he thought the star might discourage diners, he said: "We'll have to see if it puts off people who want a less formal experience, and we are not sure how the Michelin inspectors will judge it. Time will tell."

Tom Kitchin’s The Kitchin did not gain a second star as widely anticipated, and his sister restaurant Castle Terrace failed to regain the star it lost in the 2016 Guide. Chef Kitchin said: “Firstly, well done to Michael Smith at Loch Bay. I am delighted for him. And of course I am very grateful The Kitchin is still in there after continuous 10 years. Even if it does sometimes drive you mad, to be recognised in the Michelin Guide definitely makes a difference to our business and we work very hard to keep it.

“But each year I think it will be a good year for Scotland and here we are again. I’m disappointed that Castle Terrace did not get its star back. On a wider scale there is so much going on in Scotland that I feel sure we must be close to something more than this.”

That sentiment was echoed by Shirley Spear OBE, co-owner of the Three Chimneys. She said: “This is a disappointing result not only for us, but for Scotland. Are Michelin just giving thumbs down to everything Scotland is achieving in food and drink? There are some very special places that are punching well above the London weight. That Loch Bay is the only restaurant in the entire country to be recognised this way is ridiculous. There are lots of other restaurants in Glasgow, Edinburgh and the Highlands and Islands doing great food that would love to be recognised too.”

At the glitzy live event at the Brewery in London’s fashionable east end, attended by some of the UK’s best known chefs, Michael Smith’s French wife Laurence accepted the star on her husband’s behalf, as he was judging the Highland Chef of the Year competition.

Michael Smith said: "This award means a huge amount to Michael and Laurence, who said, ‘It is an honour to receive such world-respected recognition for the efforts and achievements of the team, from such a prestigious institution. The past 18 months have been hard work but rewarding, and we would like to personally thank our fantastic restaurant team: Isabel, Bren and Graeme, as well as our family and friends who have supported us throughout.

"This is not only a wonderful achievement for us at Loch Bay, but also for the wider community here in Waternish, who we are grateful to for their support since our arrival in 2016."

From the stage, Michael Ellis, international director of the Michelin Guide, said that Michelin stars helped enhance local dining scenes and promoted tourism, and that among the key trends in eating out were a more casual dining experience. Asked if he felt Scotland was keeping abreast of the global food scene, he said: “Scotland has some of the world’s finest restaurants in some of the most desirable tourist destinations such as St Andrews and Gleneagles. Its seafood, root vegetables, beef and lamb is without parallel. There’s no doubt about that but chefs need to cook what their customers want.

“My advice is ‘don’t cook for the Michelin inspectors. Cook for your customers. Fill your restaurant with happy customers who want to come back, make your restaurant successful. That’s what we look for and if you do that then we will find you’.”

There are now five three-star restaurants in the UK as a £300-per-person sushi restaurant with just nine seats joined the elite of eateries.

The Araki, which opened off Regent Street in London in 2014, joins Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck and Alain Roux's Waterside Inn in Bray, Berkshire; Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester in Park Lane and Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea, as three star holders.