YOU'VE probably heard the myth that seafood and cheese don’t belong together, but if there’s one recipe to prove the naysayers wrong, it’s lobster macaroni. It’s a luxurious twist on a classic lunchtime favourite, and that’s just why I love this recipe. I’m not alone, though – when we celebrated Osso’s 10th birthday at the end of last year, we asked our customers to recall their favourite dishes from the past decade, and our four-cheese macaroni was one of the most popular. Everyone loves macaroni, and adding sweet, rich lobster meat transforms it into a decadent Valentine’s Day dinner for two. My recipe here makes enough for four, but if you don’t feel like sharing, just halve the quantities.

Lobster can seem quite daunting to cook at first, but don’t be put off; this recipe is an ideal way to maximise what can be an expensive ingredient. All parts of the lobster are used, and you’ll make more than double the quantity of bisque that you’ll actually need to create this tasty pasta dish. You can eat the rest as it is, or freeze it for a later date and use it as a sauce in a decadent fish pie.

Fishmongers will often offer a choice of either Scottish or Canadian lobster – I’d always recommend opting for Scottish lobster; it’s that little bit more expensive, but ultimately worth it for the knowledge that you’re buying local seafood and helping combat extra food miles. YOU’VE probably heard the myth that seafood and cheese don’t belong together, but if there’s one recipe to prove the naysayers wrong, it’s lobster macaroni. It’s a luxurious twist on a classic lunchtime favourite, and that’s just why I love this recipe. I’m not alone, though – when we celebrated Osso’s 10th birthday at the end of last year, we asked our customers to recall their favourite dishes from the past decade, and our four-cheese macaroni was one of the most popular. Everyone loves macaroni, and adding sweet, rich lobster meat transforms it into a decadent Valentine’s Day dinner for two. My recipe here makes enough for four, but if you don’t feel like sharing, just halve the quantities.

Lobster can seem quite daunting to cook at first, but don’t be put off; this recipe is an ideal way to maximise what can be an expensive ingredient. All parts of the lobster are used, and you’ll make more than double the quantity of bisque that you’ll actually need to create this tasty pasta dish. You can eat the rest as it is, or freeze it for a later date and use it as a sauce in a decadent fish pie.

Fishmongers will often offer a choice of either Scottish or Canadian lobster – I’d always recommend opting for Scottish lobster; it’s that little bit more expensive, but ultimately worth it for the knowledge that you’re buying local seafood and helping combat extra food miles. There is currently a campaign against boiling live lobsters. We don’t do that. Instead I’d recommend a more humane method which involves putting your lobster in the freezer for an hour before cooking.

Lobster macaroni

(Serves 4)

For the lobster bisque:

1x 600g lobster

200g fennel (about half a head), chopped

One large onion, chopped

Half a leek, chopped

1 sprig of thyme

3 garlic cloves, crushed

10 saffron threads

10 fennel seeds

10 coriander seeds

150ml white wine

50ml brandy

50ml Pernod

One large carrot, chopped

Three sticks of celery, chopped

2 tomatoes, cut into eighths

1 tbsp tomato purée

1 litre of milk

1 litre double cream

Salt and pepper

Method

1. Place the lobster in the freezer for an hour before cooking – this will render them insensate. Line the point of a large, sharp knife, blade up, with the mid-line on the lobster’s head and, with the blade of the knife pointing towards its tail, direct the first cut downwards through the head. Make a second cut backwards, down the mid-line towards the tail.

2. Bring a large pot of water to the boil. Once the water is boiling, cook the lobster for eight minutes, then remove it from the pot and refresh in iced water.

3. Once completely cold, break the tail and head apart. Crack the tail by placing it shell up and squeezing on either side until you hear a crack. Then peel off the shell, reserving this for your bisque. Split the head into four, and crack the claws by using the back of a knife. Remove the meat, and again reserve the shells.

4. Now, start making your bisque. In a large pan, warm up a splash of oil and add the carrot, fennel, onion, celery, leeks, garlic and thyme. Cook for five minutes on a medium heat, making sure you don’t colour the veg.

5. Next, add the tomatoes, fennel seeds, coriander seeds and saffron, and cook for another two minutes.

6. Add the wine, Pernod and brandy, and reduce down by at least three-quarters.

7. Add the tomato puree and cook out for five minutes, being careful that your mixture doesn’t catch.

8. Add the shells and leave for a couple of minutes, again stirring regularly. Next, add the milk and cream, stirring well. Bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes, then remove from the heat and allow to infuse for at least 30 minutes.

9. Pass the liquid through a fine sieve, and season with salt and pepper. You’ll have much more than you need for the macaroni, but it does freeze very well.

For the macaroni:

300g cooked lobster meat

500ml lobster bisque

200g Philadelphia cheese

250ml double cream

50g parmesan cheese

40ml lobster oil (optional)

200g dried macaroni (500g when cooked)

Salt and pepper

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 190°C.

2. In a bowl, mix together the lobster bisque with the cream cheese until smooth.

3. Add the parmesan, macaroni, lobster meat, double cream and lobster oil (if using) and combine well. Check the seasoning again at this point.

4. Split the macaroni into separate bowls, or one large ovenproof dish, and sprinkle parmesan on top. Place in the centre of the oven for around 15-20 minutes until the top is bubbling and golden. Serve with a side salad and some focaccia bread, and enjoy.

Ally McGrath is chef proprietor at Osso Restaurant, 1 Innerleithen Rd, Peebles EH45 8BA Tel 01721 724477 https://ossorestaurant.com