MONKFISH is a relatively easy dish to match to wine … as long as you like Chardonnay. A rich new world example (I’d suggest a Western Australian or a decent Californian) with a healthy touch of oak would be the perfect partner. However, when you add the harissa spice to the fish, I’d recommend a quick rethink in wine terms.

A Gewurztraminer from Alsace would suit the spice element of the dish, but it can be too floral an option for some palates. I’d prefer a beautifully aromatic new world Viognier which I feel is a lovely mid-point style-wise between the Gewurz and the Chardonnay.

Viognier is a tricky grape to grow well (it’s temperamental as well as being low-yielding) and needs to be harvested at exactly the right time before the grapes get too ripe. This means that there is a very small window of opportunity for the picking team, so the winemaker has to be completely on the ball and ready to go at a moment’s notice.

When they get it right, it’s a delicious smorgasbord of flavours including peach, apricot, and lime with floral notes and a heady, musky perfume element. This all helps to make the wine a good match with lobster, spiced monkfish and even roast pork.

My current favourite is the Saronsberg Viognier 2016 (Inverarity One to One, £12.49). Saronsberg are based in Tulbagh, South Africa and they make a fantastic and diverse range of wines. The maiden vintage was as recent 2004, so they’re relatively new kids on the block especially when you consider that producers like Meerlust go back to the 1600s.

However, they have made quite a splash in a short period of time and they’ve won a few awards to boot. Their Viognier sees 11 months in oak, which provides a fabulous structure to the wine without ever overpowering the fruit. The balance is exceptional, making it one of the best whites that I’ve tasted this year. (I know we’re not yet in March, but I taste a lot of wine).

Alternatively, grab a bottle of the Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2016 (Majestic, £10.99). From the Barossa valley, this is a classic, full-on, bold Aussie and it’s just lovely. It has more than enough character to stand up to the harissa element in the dish. Enjoy!

Pete Stewart is Glasgow director of Inverarity One to One, 185a Bath Street www.inveraritymorton.com