OVER the last few weeks, I’ve been recommending wines that are not necessarily the norm such as Godello from Galicia and Malagousia from Greece. This week is no different, as we explore the Arneis grape to match the grilled sole.
Arneis comes from Piedmont in northern Italy where some people refer to it as ‘white Barolo’. It’s a tricky grape to grow (Arneis translates as ‘little rascal’), with many plantings being grubbed up in the eighties and replaced with more amenable varieties. This meant that the grape was on the brink of extinction before a few forward thinking producers brought it back. As it grew in popularity again, it attained DOC status in the nineties and reached the dizzy heights of DOCG in 2006.
The grape does particularly well on the chalky, sandy soil of the Roero hills to the north of Alba. Look out for Roero Arneis DOCG on the label.
The best examples of the style are crisp, clean and floral with notes of pears, apricots and tangerines on the nose and the palate. It’s the perfect partner to sole, and the crispness in the glass makes it ideal with the asparagus element of the dish too.
Here are a few to check out this weekend…
Malvira Roero Arneis 2016 (Waitrose, £10.99). This is a great wee wine, and super value. It doesn’t have the complexity of some of its more expensive neighbours, but it’s a good introduction to the style.
Ascheri Langhe Arneis 2016 (M&S, £13.50). Ascheri are one of my favourite producers from the north of Italy and this is an exceptional bottle. Phone ahead to check availability as it’s currently showing as ‘out of stock’ on the M&S website. Trust me though, it’s worth waiting for.
Roero Arneis DOCG Le Madri Michele Chiarlo 2016 (Inverarity One to One, £16.99). Michele Chiarlo make some of the best wines in the area with their Barolos selling for £60-80. Their Arneis Le Madri is the best I’ve tasted with the perfect balance between the fruit and the minerality. It’s very food friendly but can also be quaffed on its own as a lovely alternative aperitif. Feed your soul. Cheers!
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