Roses bring colour, scent and brightness to the summer garden, but appeal to pests as much as to us.

Inevitably, the weather can bring heartache as well as joy and there’s nothing we can do about it. When a rose bud is on the point of bursting out and then rots, all you can do is fight back a tear.

But it might partly be our fault if a rose develops powdery mildew during a warm sunny spell in summer. The fungus causes white pustules on leaves, with ascospores forming beneath a white coating. The disease is disfiguring and, though damaging, is rarely fatal. Stressed plants are more at risk than healthy vigorous ones, so we can hardly blame the weather if we’re not growing our roses properly in the first place.

Start by choosing one of the many modern varieties that have been bred with some resistance to the fungus. But they too need a helping hand. They require moist, fairly fertile soil. Mulches pay dividends, retaining moisture and encouraging good soil structure.

But don’t molly coddle your roses with lashings of nitrogenous feed as this artificially stimulates leaf growth, partly inhibits flowering and also weakens the plants, making them even more attractive to pests as well as diseases such as powdery mildew. Instead, increase a leaf’s natural resilience by spraying with liquid seaweed every week.

Pests such as greenfly, scale insects and sawfly attack a plant when it’s down. Greenfly consume plant sap and excrete sugary honeydew which develop a black coating that you might confuse with blackspot. Brown scale insects produce similar symptoms on stems. A curled leaf may be harbouring a sawfly grub which it will shortly consume. Reduce this risk by looking out for it and removing the pest. Easier said than done, I know, but eagle eyes work wonders.

Best of all, manage the garden to encourage a buildup of natural predators to control these pests: lacewing and hoverfly larvae, tiny parasitic wasps and small birds, like tits. Even dread wasps are doing a brilliant job just now, with each hoovering up as many as 100 greenfly a day for the larvae in their bykes [nests]. Only later in the season, with their real job done, do they indulge in sweet goodies. I confess in my long-established organic garden, my roses rarely, if ever, summer.

Blackspot is a different matter. Good soil conditions help but older varieties and many species roses are susceptible to blackspot, an all-too-common rose disease. Many modern cultivars have been developed with some resistance: I find ‘Teasing Georgia’ unblemished, but my gorgeous species rose, ‘Old Yellow Scotch’ is always completely riddled.

So what to do? You can’t simply rip out an old friend. ‘Old Yellow Scotch’ surrounds part of my kitchen garden, so it’d be a hugely monumental and expensive task. So, I’m frankly brutal. Every few years, I fell and clear away the lot after flowering. Being a tough, species rose it throws up a mass of clean healthy shoots. But if you have a grafted rose you’ll find good garden hygiene helps. Remove and destroy fallen leaves, cut out diseased stems and mulch in spring to cover fungal spores.

Stem die-back may be another fungal disorder. The pathogen also thrives in stressed plants, entering a plant through a cut or damaged stem. It could also be caused if the plant is pruned during a frosty spell. Well-established roses always have some die-back after winter, so don’t panic. Cut out all damaged stems and branches, pruning the culprit right back to a join with a healthy stem and never leaving butt ends.

Plant of the week

Rose ‘Lady of Shallot Disease resistant modern shrub rose growing to about 120cm. The glowing orange blooms have a spicy fragrance. Repeat flowering.