It’s a scenario I never imagined possible: I’m sitting with a cup of coffee poring over a copy of the Racing Post. Names like Vintage Clouds, Getabird and Gold Present catch my eye but the jumble of numbers alongside each entry is a completely different language.

One horse in particular seems to sum up my state of mind as I set off for a weekend at Cheltenham races, frantically trying to gen up before someone realises I’m a fake: Pylonthepressure could be my kindred spirit in equestrian form.

Favoured by a wealthy set sporting Barbour jackets and Hunter wellies, the Cotswolds is often painted as a country playground for celebrities and aristocrats temporarily tired of city life.

Plenty of boutique hotels and gastropubs nurture that nostalgic sentiment, but when it comes to attitudes and actual price points, the destination is far less “exclusive” than you might think.

Sleeping with a slice of history

Pulling into the driveway at Ellenborough Park, a 61-room hotel, 20 minutes’ drive from Cheltenham Spa train station, I can easily visualise myself as a member of the aristocracy. Built in 1485 by a farmer, Thomas Goodman, whose initials can be seen above the original entrance, it survived the English Civil War and allegedly sheltered Oliver Cromwell.

Passing through several hands, who added grand staircases, oak panelling and bay windows, it eventually ended up in the 1800s with the Earl of Ellenborough, whose second wife Jane Digby caused scandal with her numerous affairs.

Until 1940, it was used as a school and then a hotel – finally being renovated as Ellenborough Park in 2008.

HIGH-FLIERS DROP IN

Located opposite Cheltenham Racecourse, the hotel attracts many sports fans on race days.

Some wealthy spectators arrive by helicopter, says our chauffeur, as we head along a private country trail belonging to the hotel.

“During busy times, we get one every seven seconds,” he says, “making this the busiest landing site in Europe.”

At the course, crowds queue outside booths to place their bets – starting from as little as £1 – with various options to improve chances of winning.

Earnest punters with furrowed brows cluster around the parade ring, where horses are trotted around by stablehands, trying to predict which animal might have the winning streak.

Horse racing, it seems, is something you can take as lightly or as seriously as you like.

But even those who start slowly soon catch the bug: watching from the sidelines, I’m amazed how quickly spectators get swept up in a frenzy. Deep down, no matter how much they go home with, everyone wants to win.

Dining in stately style

Fearing the irresistible lure of gambling (and inevitable failure), I refrain from placing any bets. Instead, I enjoy my prize back at the hotel, where cocktails have been prepared in the slick Atrium bar.

Last year, the property underwent a renovation, transforming two dining areas, the country pub-style

The Horse Box and the more elegant The Restaurant.

We opt for the private dining room worthy of a royal banquet, where executive chef David Williams, who has worked alongside Gordon Ramsay and Heston Blumenthal, presents a largely British menu.

After dinner we retire to The Great Hall, harking back to medieval times with its open fire and golden harp, and sneak up a winding stairwell to The Snug, a tiny room decorated with warm Moroccan furnishings.

Ghosts from the past

Like all worthy Cotswolds hotels, a range of celebrities has passed through these stone doorways: Zara Tindall, Sadie Frost and David Hasselhoff have all checked in at some point.

I wonder if any have stayed in Room 56, reputedly haunted by Lady Ellenborough. In the last three years, 13 people have complained about “a presence”, although when I enter the room, where her portrait hangs on blood-red walls, I fail to find any ghostly guests.

Ending on a ramble

One of the main reasons people come to this part of the world is for country walks, putting those wellies and wax jackets to good use.

I end my weekend with a muddy stomp up Cleeve Hill, borrowing attire from the hotel’s Boot Room to avoid getting my own gear dirty.

The next race at Cheltenham is the April 18-19 meeting

Sarah Marshall